“I was gifted a 6x6 medium format camera by my high school photo teacher. We were at the Getty, and we were looking at a photo, and I cried. A) My work is never going to look like this. B) I know this is film because it has a look and none of my digital photos could touch this. C) I was crying because I was upset thinking that I’ve shot hundreds of thousands of digital photos and they still can’t touch this. Why? I was questioning everything, having an existential crisis. She [high school teacher] asked me, ‘Do you have a medium format camera that shoots film? I have one in storage; you can have it.’”

For me, surfing is the freedom to play. It’s like dancing on water. Right now I am learning how to walk the nose on a longboard, and it has given me the freedom to have fun and relearn “surf.” I think my style is not the traditional aggressive type of style. Mine is more relaxing… the feeling… the energy. It feels like there is just always a lot of play.